Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Japanese Braised Pork, Nagasaki-Style


I had this dish while in NYC and enjoyed it so much that I decided to recreate it at home. The thing that struck me about this preparation was the refined cleanliness of the flavor. Even more impressive is the fact that pork belly is involved...normally a very fatty piece of meat which can often taste heavy and overly rich. All in all, a success...George deems it the best pork belly dish that I've ever made.

A little bit about the name. Most people know that Japan was basically isolated from foreign influence until the mid 1800's. What I didn't realize was that the port of Nagasaki was already somewhat open having been a trading port for the Portuguese and Dutch. Through these outside influences, foreign foods, such as pork (illegal to slaughter due to Buddhist rules) made their way into Japan. There's your history lesson for the day.

Anyhow, I'm using Japanese Cooking A Simple Art which should be at the top of your list if you want to start learning about Japanese food. The author ran a cooking school in Japan so the instructions are very clearly written and directed towards people with little cooking experience. A great tome of knowledge.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Pork! About a 2.5 pound slab of pork belly:
Slice into strips and then cubes. I took my slab of belly and cut it into the six strips you see below. I then cut each strip into four chunks:
Recipe said to brown the pork and then use hot water to rinse the pork of all extra fat. I was lazy so I deep-fried it...I figured it'd have the same effect. I did this in two batches.
Fried pork:
Rinsed pork:
Prepare the initial cooking broth. You need 2.5 cups of the water used when washing rice...you know how you rinse the water and it turns milky? Save 2.5 cups worth and add it to a large pot. Take two LARGE pieces (3 inches long) of ginger and scrape the peel off with a spoon. Cut into rough chunks and smash the chunks so they split/crack. Add all of the ginger to your pot which already has the rice water. Add the rinsed, browned pork. Add enough water to cover the pork generously.

Bring the water to a simmer, plop a lid on top and drop into the oven for a few hours...until tender. Took me about 2 hours.

When soft, scoop out the pork, set aside and throw away the water and ginger. Rinse the pork chunks...careful, they might be soft and fragile. Store overnight in the fridge.

The next day...combine 3.5 cups of dashi (i made mine with dashi-no-moto...buy this stuff, the author of this cookbook even acknowledges the excellence of the powdered product), 1 cup of sake, 2 tablespoons of mirin, 6 tablespoons of dark soy sauce and 6 tablespoons of sugar.
Place the ingredients in a pot and heat up to dissolve the sugar. Add the refrigerated pork and stir. Bring to a simmer and LIGHTLY cook for 30 minutes...don't simmer too vigorously because the pork is already soft...you don't want the pieces to disintegrate... Here's the end product:
If you're like me, you will want to refrigerate the pork and sauce. The next day, you'll be able to skim off the remaining fat (shouldn't be much) and it will also taste better. Serve with rice and miso soup. You don't need much, maybe two chunks of pork per serving. Sauce is nicely sweet, a little salty...pork carries with it plenty of ginger flavor from the initial braise. Really, really tasty.

Time- Pathetically easy. The most work you'll have to do is cut the pork into cubes. Takes about 5 minutes of active cooking time. The rest is simmering or frying. If you decide to brown the pork in a more traditional manner, it'll take a bit more effort.

Food cost-
Pork- $5.00
Small bottle of cheap sake- $4.00
Incidentals- $1.00
Total- $10.00
Will yield 12 two chunk portions or 8, three chunk portions. So around a dollar per serving.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Yes, yes...

I'm conquering the world, one country at a time....

Chocolate Pots de Creme


I have a four New Years Resolutions.
1. Exercise 5 times per week.
2. Learn about wine.
3. Divest myself of useless possessions.
4. Improve my baking/pastry skills.

1. I will be shocked if I accomplish this. I'll settle for four times a week. Anything less and I'll consider it a failure.
2. This has been easy so far.
Case of wine from Kermit Lynch.

Educational resources.

In addition, I've also created a MS Word document which will serve as the base document for my wine tasting notes. You can click here to take a look. I'm also looking to start an informal wine tasting group...maybe 3 or 4 like-minded individuals who want to get together to drink and educate ourselves. So, uhh, if you're in the Bay Area and reading this, lemme know.
3. This has also been going well. I went through my bookcase and just started grabbing books that I'd never really used. Put up a post on Craigslist and people have been coming over to root through these books. I hope to do something similar with my clothes/shoes...however, i will probably just give those to Goodwill...seems less embarrassing than having people come over, sort through my used clothes and see how unfashionable I am.
4. I am going to try to bake or make dessert once a week. This should help me overcome my fear of pastry. In addition, most ladies love chocolate, right? I figure these posts will help my single, male readers. Umm, and myself. Yah, no reason to lie.


So here we go. Chocolate pots de creme. This recipe is pulled straight out of Tartine. I am making a half-recipe.

Obligatory picture of the ingredients, easy...only five....:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Closeup of the chocolate:
Chocovic is the company...it's based in Spain. Their chocolate bars are based on single-origin cocoa beans, that is, all the beans were grown in one region of the world. Ocumare is from Venezuela. This chocolate is a PHENOMENAL deal. $2/bar at Trader Joe's. Give it a try.

Chop the chocolate and set aside. This represents one 2.82 oz. (80 gram) bar of bittersweet chocolate:
Set up a cooking contraption...you want a baking dish which is deep enough for the sides of 6 oz ramekins to be 3/4 submerged. Fill the baking dish half-way up with boiling water (displacement should bring the water level up to the desired 3/4 level) and place in the oven. Make sure to remove the ramekins before you place the dish in the oven. Here's what I used:
Set-up a double boiler. This is easy. Just fill a pot with some water, a few inches worth, and place a mixing bowl on top. Pot with water:
Mixing bowl in the pot. The point is to heat up the water in the pot and use gentle steam heat to melt the chocolate.
Add the chopped chocolate . Let it melt...stir a few times if you need to. Set aside the melted chocolate.
Heat up 11 oz of heavy whipping cream (a little under a cup and a half), a pinch of salt and 1.5 tablespoons of sugar. Bring it to just under the boil.
Incorporate the hot cream with the melted chocolate. Mix well and set aside:
Take four eggs and separate the egg yolks from the whites. Place in a bowl and mix well. Bit by bit, add the hot milk/chocolate mixture into the eggs. Mix it well. At this point, I strained the mixture to make sure there weren't any weird chunks or anything in there.

Ladle the strained chocolate/cream/egg mixture into your ramekins. Fill them 80% full. Take the ramekins and place them into the water filled baking dish which should already be in the oven.
Cook. Recipe says to cook for 20-25 minutes. For me, it was about 22 minutes. The recipe says that you're looking for the edges to look firm and set but the middle to still be a bit jiggly. The pots de creme will continue to cook while out of the oven and will set as they cool. If you cook them until they're firm, they'll be overcooked.

At this point, pull the ramekins out of the oven/water and set aside to cool:
Serve at room temperature or chill in the fridge. Chilling the pots de creme gives you a dramatically different texture from room temperature pots de creme. I'm not sure which I prefer...they're both good, just different.

If you like, serve with softly whipped cream.
These things are really delicious. However, they're also REALLY rich. Very decadent. Good chocolate flavor. Very creamy. Great texture. Would make again.

Time- Took me a stress filled 40 minutes...20 minutes of actual work, 20 for cooking This recipe is actually really easy, I just needed to do a better job of visualizing the recipe. I should have taken more time when I did the recipe read-through.

Food cost---you might have noticed that I started with four ramekins but ended up yielding only three...not sure what happened.
Chocolate- $2 bucks
Cream- $2 bucks
Eggs- $0.75
Incidentals- $0.03
Total- $4.78/ $1.60 per ramekin. Totally worth it.

Gentlemen, start practicing for Valentine's Day.

NYC: Random Media

Okay, so my camera is mostly cleaned out...nearly everything is posted. However, I have two loose ends to tidy up.

The first is my buddy Matt. Matt is a busker...for those of you who don't know what a busker is, buskers make money by playing music in subway stations. I know Matt from my days of studying music. I just thought I'd throw up a quick video of Matt playing his guitar. In addition to busking, Matt plays a few shows in NYC and composes his own music. He's an all-around good guy.



Matt also skateboards (how typical...a skateboarding guitarist).


Umm, good work there, guy. I have another video of Matt telling a lewd joke at Katz's Deli but won't upload it...it's far too long. Look for Matt "working" in the subways of NYC.

My final piece of random media...while dining at WD-50, I took a bathroom break. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the nice ladies at the next table with whom I had exchanged a few words decided to put themselves on my camera! I gotta tell ya, when I reviewed my photos late that night, I laughed my ass off for a good five minutes. Cheeky girls!



Awww, crap. The video is too dark but whatevers. It's such a funny story that I'm going to leave it up.

That about does it...my NYC posts are over. Back to the regularly scheduled programming.

edit: oh shoot, I almost forgot about my Momofuku Ssam Bar rant. When I ate at the restaurant, I politely asked if non-flash photography was allowed. The waiter informed me that photography was not allowed in the restaurant. Well, feast your eyes on this (another unintended food pun!)

Clicky.

No photos in the restaurant, my ass. Other than that, it was a pretty good meal. We had the grilled sweetbreads, pork buns, veal head terrine, uni with whipped tofu, pork belly ssam and apple kimchi. A very, very solid meal.